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Like many Mediterranean cities, the outskirts of Rome are dominated by low-level warehouses, sprawling outlets, scrubby grassland and restaurants that look vaguely run down.

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But my excitement increased as I got my first view of the city. As I emerged from the gloom of the metro into Piazza di Spagna, I was engulfed by the fairy-lit splendour of Rome in full swing.

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Thronging with tourists, the recently cleaned marble of the Spanish Steps gleamed white in the late afternoon light. Olive-green garlands framed the doorways of the designer shops lining the square and twinkling strands of white and yellow lights lit the way along Via dei Condotti, Via del Babuino and Via Margutta. Greeting each other in Piazza del Popolo, we were enveloped by the cheerful bustle of a Friday evening and chatted easily as we wandered along Via del Babuino.

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Flanked by several imposing busts, and with just a few fellow diners around us, the atmosphere was austere yet pleasant, and I gave myself a mental pat on the back for showing Lorenzo something that, although slightly kitsch, was a memorable place for a quick drink and a crostini or two. Entertaining though it was, by the time we walked back towards the now quiet Piazza di Spagna, I suspected that our attraction was more amici than amore, so I was surprised when Lorenzo asked me for coffee again the following day.

That afternoon we joined the buzzing throng of Italians enjoying an afternoon stroll — a ritual known as la passeggiata. A chance to see and be seen, well-dressed couples and families filled the streets, adding to the festive atmosphere.


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In the twilight, we followed the steady stream of people up Via del Corso to Palazzo Chigi, seat of the Italian government. Street lamps glowed warmly against fading terracotta, the chatter of shoppers spilling from shop doorways as we made our way past the Pantheon towards Piazza Navona. He confided that he had chatted with a few women, but almost all were in locations that he was unlikely to visit anytime soon.

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